by andrea

This photo was taken during a solitary walk through Oaxaca city in 2010. I was shocked by the otherwise empty nature of the scene, since there is usually heavy traffic coming in and out of the cathedral. I attempted communicating with the woman holding a donation cup by the entrance, but she was elderly, and did not speak Spanish nor did I speak her language. At a glance, one may not think much of this photo, but it is important to reflect on why this image is impactful and relevant.

The Mexican state of Oaxaca de Juarez is as gorgeous as its name and has the ability to take you back in time through its art, architecture, history, artisans, gastronomy, distinct indigenous regions, and its people. However, all of this came at a cost for Oaxaca due to the Spanish Conquest of Mexico in the 16th century. Oaxaca’s sierra resisted violently for as long as it could but as with most pre-Hispanic temples, art, languages, customs, and cultures, Oaxaca was completely changed by Catholicism and its churches, language, and conversions. One of the most stunning relics from this time is the church and former monastery of Santo Domingo de Guzman. Located in the city centre, its unique Baroque architecture and ornamentation is impossible to ignore. The church’s exterior is as beautiful as its interior - hand-painted ceilings, domes, and vaults - prominently featuring tens of thousands of 23.5 karat gold sheets decorating the already astounding surface. This unique blend of civilizations and influences - and its impressive preservation in Oaxaca - is undoubtedly what makes Oaxaca de Juarez such a paradigmatic remnant of history.

Mexico’s architecture and ancient temples are undoubtedly marvelous - but one never thinks about the direct descendants of ancient peoples that are still alive and walking around today. The Mexican government enjoys promoting (exploiting) its pre-Hispanic sites, artisans, and historical relics without taking into account how the direct descendants of those wondrous civilizations are living in dire conditions. Every time I go to Mexico, I feel disgust and disappointment in not only the government, but religious institutions and civilians who discriminate, abuse, and altogether ignore the plight of the true native peoples of Mexico. Artisans and vendors are constantly barraged by clients fighting to bring their already low prices down for priceless work.

One never imagines the journey some people take to get to a city, by foot, by cart, by bus - just to sell their craft. Many of those products are hand-made art or clothing, which may have taken hours, days, or weeks to complete, or produce that they grew, cultivated, and transported, or in many cases - there are no products to offer because the poverty and neglect has backed them up into a corner leaving them with absolutely nothing to their names. As an anthropologist and generally as an empathic human being, it is difficult to not want to intervene or “help” in some way, but one person alone cannot change a centuries-old broken system designed to keep Mexico’s native communities down - all while glorifying their ancestors’ remarkable civilizations and what they left behind. Simultaneously, it is also difficult not to appreciate the beauty, the meaning, and significance of both ancient pre-Hispanic and European history that exists in living color to this day, including sites, cultures, and civilizations that have not been found or we may not know about yet.

The photo above portrays a powerful image. An indigenous woman sits extremely close to the grand entrance of the world famous Santo Domingo cathedral. She stares solemnly into the darkness of the church - a church covered in gold and invaluable resources - a church built by the very people who displaced her ancestors - as she holds her empty cup.

MARGINALIZATION + GLORIFICATION